The
benefit of using protein is common in hair care literature. However, what
exactly to use and easy ways to use effective proteins are still sparse. I find
too many hair posts that recommend egg and mayonnaise as hair treatments. Also,
very little is done to describe how proteins help with moisture in hair. Below
find effective means of using proteins to keep your hair moisturized this
summer.
Protein
makes up about 90% of the composite of hair. The structural bonds of these
proteins is a string of amino acids (18 in total) that are in turn made up of
sulfur, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and carbon. The bonds are joined together by
peptides. Two essential elements required for hair are proteins and moisture.
However,
in order to be effective proteins need to be of a particular size in order to
penetrate the hair. These ideal proteins are referred to as hydrolyzed. Meaning
that the large molecular structure of protein has been processed into smaller
units. These proteins can originate from a variety of plant (wheat, soy and
rice and oats) and animal sources (milk protein, egg protein, silk protein and glycol-protein).
These proteins function to increase hair
absorption meaning it is helps to increase moisture in hair. It strengthens
hair, improves elasticity, shine, softness and smooth hair.
Proteins that need a special mention:
Wheat protein (Wheat amino acids)
Enables hair to both receive and
retain moisture. Wheat proteins have an
ideal molecular weight at 150-2000 to penetrate hair at deeper levels. What that
means is healthier hair possibly better looking hair as well.
Keratin Protein
Can be of human or animal origin.
Sheep Wool is commonly used as well with a weight of about 1100-3300. Human
hair can be hydrolysed to a 150-2000 molecular weight. Gives strength and
plasticity. Said to be the most potent
protein as it is closest to the actual composition of hair. High in cysteine-
typically lost during chemical processing of hair. Is used to give hair
strength and plasticity, moisture and shine.
Silk Protein (Silk Amino Acid)
Silk protein has a small molecular
structure that makes it ideal for hair. It has a durability quality that makes
it popular for use in a range of products.
Note that proteins of animal and
vegetable origin interact differently with hair. Animal proteins refine into
fatty acids that coat hair. Typically these products stiffen and harden on hair
as they stay on the outer layer. In contrast vegetable ones penetrate the hair.
Thus gives more moisture benefit. What you want is a protein/moisture balance.
Lets look at the use of Gelatin.
Gelatin is a great source of protein,
easily accessible and easy to use. Gelatin however does not absorb into the
hair. Recall the Olympic games? One of the uses of gelatin is for the
perfectly non-moving hairstyles of synchronized swimmers. What if you are
vegetarian and was thinking of using Agar instead? Don’t! Agar is the perfect
breeding ground for all sorts of ‘nasties’. In fact it is so good at that job
that Agar is used in laboratory testing of the stability and preservative
quality of products. Save the Agar for your food. Unless you have an amazing
broad-spectrum preservative to ensure whatever you have made stays usable.
How to
get protein into your hair?
The best
way to get protein into your hair is to eat protein rich foods. I completely
hate this thought as it is hard enough for me just to remember to eat because I
have to. So, hearing that a good diet
gives good hair is just not my idea of fun. Still, it is what it is. Your body
has the immaculate ability to hydrolyse proteins and use them where necessary. I am also not a big believer in supplements
as the scientific proof of their benefit is slim at best and often way too
inflated by pop culture.
Should
option one make you as unhappy as it does me then the next option is to buy
these in ready made, packed and easy to use hair treatments.
Option
Three (my favourite). Find ways to get your protein fix in a DIY product.
Oils-
Wheat germ, rice bran, soy oil and oat oil are a good place to start
Rinses:
Rice water/fermented rice water/rice vinegar
Powders:
Rice flour, oat flour, Soy flour, and whey powder
Using the oils as
pre-poo (Wheat germ, Soy, oat or rice bran)
A friend
recently shared her amazing results using wheat germ oil on her hair as a
pre-poo treatment. The way she uses it is as follows:
Apply
the oil to wet hair and cover with a shower cap. Use a hot wet towel and cover
the head and shower cap. Repeat this process a few times ensuring that the
towel stays warm to create a heat cap. Keep on for about an hour and wash as
usual. She has a head of beautiful hair and attributes it to the use of wheat
germ oil. (See her stunning pictures below)
Rinses (Rice water)
To make
rice water:
½-1 cup
of rice
10-12
cups of water
(essential
oils- optional)
Raw rice
method:
Place
rice in bowl and rinse to remove debris.
Add
water and let it rest for about 48hrs
The rice
will ferment and impart colour into the water.
When the
rice water is fermented bring it to a simmer to stop the fermentation. Decant
the water into a jar and leave in fridge to use. The water will stay fresh for
about a week. So only make it when you can use it.
Cooked
rice method:
Boil the
rice in the water until cooked and drain the water into a bowl. You can either
ferment the rice water or cool it and store it in the fridge.
Rice
Vinegar:
Brown
rice vinegar is rich in amino acids. Good quality rice vinegars have a sediment
at the bottom that when shaken gives it a cloudy appearance.
There
goes my love for Apple Cider vinegar.
*I have
used rice flour and whey powder on my hair before in protein potions. I have
not had any problems with it. However, please note that whey and soy have been
linked to controversial research on hair applications. Some research indicates
soy isolates as a culprit to hair fall. Soy has also recently come under fire
by the medical fraternity for containing hormones that can cause health
problems. Please do some research before embarking on a trial for new natural
products. Read before testing it on yourself.
Sources:
