Showing posts with label natural hair products. Show all posts
Showing posts with label natural hair products. Show all posts

Thursday, 23 July 2015

Green is the new Black




 The Naturalmente motto is: “…new attentive and eco-sustainable cosmetics that offer beauty without compromise!”

What sets Naturalmente apart is the use of plant based ingredients instead of synthetic substances, it is free from animal and petrochemical compounds. It also does not contain silicone, parabens, petrochemicals, artificial colours and SLS. 


Shampoo: Fennel and Geranium- moisturising and normalising


First impression: 
In 2014 I discovered this brand of products at a local health store while in search for organic and natural haircare alternatives. What attracted me to the brand was initially the layout and presentation of the products. The packaging is a little frustrating at first as it is not the easy glance and find type you typically have with haircare products. Some of the products have the bold print in Italian and english subtext. However, there is English text both on front and back which eased my shopping experience somewhat. I inspected every product on shelf and settled for Fennel and Geranium. I had found an all natural range and I was excited enough to try it the same day.

I brought the products home and went straight to my computer to do some research on the brand and the ingredients. I was sold on the manufacturing process all that remained was for me to try it out. 

First use:
When I first used the shampoo I was very surprised to find that it did not have the usual high foam and slip that is common in other products. The second thing that jumped out at me was that the fragrance of the product seemed different. It was not the typical highly perfume in most products it was a subtle herbal scent. I was intrigued by the experience and wanted to know why this was the case.


The Ingredients:
When I researched the ingredients I found that the reason the product acted differently is because it is made up of a plant base what uses a functional but very different approach to the selection and formulation of ingredients. The cleansers in the shampoo are zinc coceth sulfate and  cocamidipropyl betaine and decl glucoside- mild and non-irritating cleansers that act counter to the high volume foams in of an SLS basis. it contains several tonics, minerals, proteins and organic fragrances and some active oils. The scents are from rose geranium, fennel, clary, rosewood bark, lavender, sandalwood, orange peel oil,  Citrolellol and geraniol oil blends. 

The product also contains a blend of proteins: disodium capryloyl glutamate, hydrolysed soy and wheat. which are humectant,  emollients and moisturising and gives a smoothness to the hair shaft. The conditioning agents are sodium loivamphoacetate, glyceryl oleate, lactic acid, polyquaternium-10. All excellent conditioning agents. It also contains several minerals with skin conditioning properties. 

Things to note with essential oils and proteins are that they can cause skin irritation and or sensitivity with sun exposure. Essential oils offer many health benefits both in their active benefits as well as in their aromatherapy abilities. I do believe that there is tremendous value in scientifically formulated combinations of essential oils. Particularly the sources of these oils; workability in formulations as well as their concentrations. Think of essential oils as medicine. You want to get good quality as well as the right quantity in a product. Always check ingredients and if necessary test a product on a small part of your skin to ensure that you do not have sensitivity to any of the ingredients. The same goes for proteins. If you have a particular sensitivity to a protein it is advisable that you test a product that contains that particular item to make sure it is safe for you to use. 

My overall experience of the shampoo
The shampoo did a super job of cleaning my scalp and hair. I liked the fact that while I was scared of my hair being matted due to the fact that it had such a low slip factor this was not the case at all. I found that my hair was not stripped at all. I then followed the shampoo with the Fennel and Geranium conditioner which really made a quick job of detangling. The conditioner has plenty of slip and finger combing my hair was a breeze.  The combination of these two products really worked well. 

This particular shampoo and conditioner are my go to products. In between everything else I try and or use this is a regular in my hair pile. 

A note on using shampoo: 
Shampoo is meant to be used to clean the scalp. The product then runs off the hair in the rinse and this is sufficient to clean the hair. So when using a shampoo apply it onto your scalp and massage it with your fingers focussing on the root area. Second shampoos are usually imperative when SLS has been eliminated


Love Naturally
Love Green 


The Ingredients: Fennel and Geranium shampoo. 
Water
Zinc coceth sulfate- is an alkyl ether sulfate. It is a mild surfactant of alkyl ether sulfates. Dual purpose of cleansing and conditioning with basic zinc. It is a lot less harsh than the typical Sodium Laureate Sulfate (SLS) typically found in shampoos that produces high foam volumes. (www.cosmeticsinfo.org

Cocamidopropyl betaine- a mild non-irritating cleanser. Its purpose is to thicken a product and to tone down other cleansers in a product. It also serves as a moisturiser. (tightlycurly.com)

Maris sal- mineral derived from sea water. has skin conditioning properties (cosmetic analysis.com

Foeniculum vulgare (Fennel oil)- plant based. Functions as a tonic, emollient, alleviate and skin conditioning (www.cosmeticanalysis.com)

Pelargonium graveolens oil
scented plant based oil of rose geranium. Acts as a skin tonic and astringent. Not advisable for use to those with geranium sensitivity as it can cause photo sensitivity and irritation. Caution if you are allergic to this item. 

Salvia scalarea (Clary Oil) Plant based tonic and astringent

Lavendula angustifolia (lavender) oil- Fragrance derived from the lavender plant.

Amyris balsamifera bark oil -Is rosewood bark oil from the West Indies.  A plant based tonic that functions as a fragrance. 

Santalum album (sandalwood oil)- An oil of the Sandalwood tree that originates from India. Has emollient, moisturising, astringent, antibacterial and conditioning, anti-inflammatory, softening and calming properties. 

Citris aurantium dulcis (orange) peel oil- is pressed from the peel of oranges native to Italy. Citrus is acidic and can be irritating to sensitive skin. It is also a tonic with soothing, moisturising, anti-dandruff and cleansing properties. 

hydrolysed soy protein- A liquid protein made from soy. 

hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolysed wheat- A liquid protein made from wheat. Is an emollient and moisturiser. Functions as an anti-static and conditioner. Save for the those sensitive to wheat products this item has no other health concerns.

Protein- humectant, emollient and moisturiser. It smoothes the hair shaft and is often used in a processed form to aid absorption into the hair. 

sodium loivamphoacetate- Is an amphoteric (can be a base or an acid) organic compound. In a product it is conditioning cleansing agent. 

decyl glucoside- a gentle cleanser

coco- glucoside-non-ionic surfactant. Has cleansing, conditioning and thickening action. From renewable raw sources of coconut, corn and fruit sugars. 

glyceryl oleate- is a binder of glycerol and oleic acid. functions to condition, is very mild and has a smooth feel on the skin. 

disodium capryloyl glutamate- A multifunctional natural protein. Functions include deodorising, anti-inflammatory and anti-dandruff. Helps spread sebum on the skin. 

lactic acid- is a ph adjuster and humectant. Increases the moisture in hair. Is an ok item
polyquaternium-10- conditioning, detangling, thickening function. A good ingredient. 

Limonene- a combination of natural fragrances. 
sodium chloride- Salt. stabiliser, thickener and ph adjuster. Can be corrosive if left in the hair. however in a rinse off product at the bottom of the list its an ok item. 
Linalool-fragrance, with a Lilly scent. 
Citronellol- A fragrant oil naturally found in plant oils. A sweet, rose, leather and floral smell.    
Geraniol- a sweet floral scent made of rose, geranium, citronella and jasmine. 

*Most essential oils and essential oil blends can cause of irritation and or sensitivity with sun exposure. 


Ingredients References
(www.cosmetic analysis.com)
(www.cosmeticanalysis) 


Friday, 29 May 2015

Product Review: Giovanni 2Chic Smooth as Silk Shampoo

Smooth As Silk: Deep Moisture Shampoo

The Giovanni brand boasts with: free of sulphate free, parabens and Phthalate formulations. Most of the products are vegan save for a few. For a quick reference of the ingredients in specific Giovanni products consult their ingredients directory at here:
http://www.giovannicosmetics.com/GIOVANNI-INGREDIENT-LIST.PDF

The product claims to: 
Soothe dry and processed hair. gently cleanse and alleviate frizz and to increase shine.

First impression: The packaging is fine and the fragrance is very mild. It has a slightly citrus scent which is great. I hate perfumed products. I love perfume and I spend a fortune on it but I do not want it in my hair products. Perfumes require alcohol to carry fragrance and these can dry hair to a crisps, so I love products that do only what they should. 

The cleansers in this shampoo are very gentle. See the ingredients list below. So it won’t strip your hair. The shampoo contain no nasties and really is a great product for natural hair. 

My hair tends to be dry and so having a shampoo that is not going to remove all of the moisture is a massive plus for me. I mostly use water based products for moisture so this is a sufficient cleanser. I was not sure of its efficacy with a heavy oil or butter based regime. So I put it through a second test where I had a massive amount of dry products on my hair. I was pleasantly surprised that it still performed as a cleanser. I did use a second shampoo on the second trial just to be sure and ti cleaned fairly well. Still I found the cleansing to be gentle. I have used this shampoo a few times and I am very happy with it. 

It does have good slip and fair foam. Although more often than not the foam factor in shampoo is unnecessary. You don’t need form to clean anything. it is simply that we have grown accustomed to having it there that it it is added. So washing with it was pleasant. My scalp was clean and the rinse off on my hair was great. I liked this product and give it a big yes. 


The cleansers: Sodium lauryl Sarcosinate, Decyl glucoside, Sodium cocoamphoacetate, sodium cocoyl glutamate, polysorbate 20, sodium lauryl glucose carboxylate (sulfate free) and laurel glucoside all qualify as okay and gentle cleansers. Which means that this product will not overdo the cleansing and potentially leave your hair in a clean but not stripped state. 


The extracts: 
Chamomile, orange fruit, grapefruit, lemongrass, rosemary as is the case with most essential oils carries some range of caution since they can be irritating and cause sensitivity such as the citrus types which are acidic. however, these are also common ingredients found in many cosmetics. If you have known sensitivities it is always wise to check ingredients for specific allergens that you may react to. 

Intersting ingredients: 
This product contains Aloe Vera Juice considered soothing to skin. So it is a good ingredient for irritated scalps. It contains Sea Kelp that can aid in moisture retention in hair. Mango has conditioning and humectant properties. 

The big prize ingredient here is: 
Pathenol (Vit B5) which is a hair conditioning agent. Can moisturise hair and give it a soft feel. It also penetrates into the cortex of the hair, hence the deep conditioning claim of the range. However, it is best as a leave in product since it can rinse off easily. 

The preservatives: 
Potassium sorbate and phenoxyethanol are both mild to the skin and considered safe. 

The rest of the peripheral ingredients are all fine, fairly common and overall this product contains no outright yuk. 


These and other Giovanni products are available online at:
Orders can be placed at sales@beau2you.co.za




Imported Hair Products: Giovanni



Giovanni was founded in 1978 by Arthur Guidotti and Peter Stathis. Arthur, a seasoned hairstylist, was driven by his skin reactions to existing hair products and started this natural product line unlike any that existed at the time. In time Giovanni was further developed by Arthur’s son who broke down the barriers between natural and on trend by presenting a cutting edge marketing strategies and continually growing the product lines. The mission for the brand is to create great products, in stylish packaging and to present it beautifully. Giovanni became one of the pioneers of natural haircare and is today the top selling natural haircare brand in the United States.

I came across Giovanni many years ago while actively racing through the net in search of hair products. It is a commonly used and recommended product by naturals abroad. Giovanni was further popularised when it was one of the few product brands to be endorsed by Miss Dee Kay in the Max hydration method. It is used by naturals across the texture spectrum and had been in short supply locally until very recently. What is special about Giovanni is that it has an organic endorsement by the US Drug Association. It is therefore considered mostly natural and of organic origin. Overall, this brand is generally free of the common yuk attack in the cosmetics industry and is one of the few products that cross various various different consumer segments. 

What really irritates me about imported products is that they are sold locally at ridiculous markups. It frustrates me completely when I look online to compare prices and find that products have been marked up by a few hundred percent. It takes the pleasure out of shopping regardless of my absolute desire to try something new. While I appreciate the effects of the weak rand and resultant impact on imports some importers really leave my jaw on the floor. However, they are going through the grind of getting what we want and why not charge top ZAR if the market can bear it? They are however creating an opportunity for local producers to up their market share. 


So when I find an importer with reasonable prices I get very excited. I have spent a few years tracking a supplier who carries the Smooth as Silk EcoChic range. Now I have found one that sells more than just what I was looking for. Most of the Giovanni ranges are now available at www.beau2you.co.za Orders can be placed at sales@beau2you.co.za and product prices range between R191 for the white EcoChic Smooth as Silk to R219 for The Avocado and olive oil, Brazilian Keratin, Tangerine & Papaya.  

See the next few blogs for the full product reviews

Sunday, 26 April 2015

Catwalk by TIGI: Review

The Silver Platter

Catwalk by TIGI- Curls Rock Amplifier



What it is: A curl cream that promises to separate and define your curls. 

First Impression: This product has received rave reviews on the curly wire. It appears to be a popular product and when you first look at the very pretty packaging of black and pretty metallic blue it certainly has a ‘buy me’ look. The description is also on point with the promise to give great curls. 

I am torn with TIGI products. On the one hand it is great that there are products available that speak to the need of naturals with curly hair. On the other I have concerns with the ingredients in these products. I am not comfortable with using products that have a few good ingredients and the bulk of the ingredients have a ‘caution’ and or ‘avoid’ label on them. Particularly since hair products are used on a regular basis and is will make contact with the skin. 

There are many products we use on a regular basis that may not be good for our health. You may still want to use them if they are going to do what you want. Make the choice for yourself. Also, to dissect a product takes a lot of effort. Very few people go to the shop and reference every single ingredient in a product, Its just not practical. To show you the amount of effort I have taken one of the products and done a complete workup for you to look at. Often I would just say its good, its on the fence or I would actually just leave it out altogether. So have a look at the list of ingredients below and see what happens when the information is presented in detail. 

I know that most readers don’t want this level of detail. You want the quick view and this is a lot to digest. However, there may be some of you who would like to get the full picture. Either way, share your thoughts. 

Love Naturally
SHL


The Ingredients: 

Polyquarternium-37    
Caution 
Used to keep down fly-aways due to static electricity. Also used as a hair fixative, so this means it can build up in your hair with repeated use, making it sticky or crunchy. Fine in gels or styling products, but use caution in shampoos and conditioners. There is also concern that it tends to build up in the environment. 


Polyquaternium-11    (aka Quaternium-32) 
Caution 
This clings to hair to make it feel thicker. It also helps make hair easier to comb [Begoun (Beauty) Pg 303]. Made from cellulose. Used as a film-former (coats the hair) and to keep product from separating. Gives hair shine [Winter pg 435]. This is a resin that produces some build up. used for conditioning, to increase ease of combing, and to give body. It isn't found to be toxic [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 335]. —I'm putting this as a caution because it looks like it may build up in our hair and become sticky over time. That's fine in a styling aid, where you expect hold, but be cautious of it in shampoos and conditioners. Also, this is known to increase body, which is not what those of us with really curly hair needs.—T 
Source(s): Begoun Hunting Winter 


Cycloheptasiloxane    (aka Cyclomethicone; Polydimethylcyclosiloxane) 
Good 
A type of Silicone known as a Cyclomethicone. Used as a hair and skin conditioner, and increases slip in products [Schueller pgs 172-173]. See Cyclomethicone. 
See also: Cyclomethicone 
Source(s): Schueller 

Proplylene glycol    (aka 1,2-Propanediol) 
Okay 
Humectant. This is a clear, colorless, thick liquid. Can penetrate the skin better than glycerin, but is less expensive. Second in moisture-carrying abilities only to water. Can also be used to dissolve ingredients (in the way that water can dissolve them). Winter pg 428. Rumors have circulated that it is bad, but there is no research validating this. For more information, check out Propylene Glycol Begoun pg 1326. 
Source(s): Begoun Winter 

Phenoxyethanol    
Okay 
Preservative believed to be less irritating than others. Can also be used as a fragrance [Winter pg 399]. 

Phenoxyethanol is mild to the skin but can be hugely irritating to eyes—though it isn't found to be irritating in the tiny amounts normally used in products. Surprisingly, it also has some conditioning and emollient properties. 

This is an oily, white to off-white liquid that smells a bit like roses. It doesn't dissolve easily in water, but will in ethanol or alkaline environments. Though Phenoxyethanol kills bacteria, it doesn't kill all types of them, so it's often combined with other anti-bacterial ingredients to kill all bacteria that may form in a product. Because it is conditioning, Phenoxyethanol may be found more often in conditioners or cosmetics, or shampoos meant to be moisturizing. The problem with Phenoxyethanol is that you do have to use higher amounts to do the job, and since it smells like roses, it may be hard to cover up the scent (if you aren't wanting your product to smell rosy) [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 317-318]. This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a 

* * * Tried and true ingredient * * * 
See also: Preservative 
Source(s): Winter Hunting 

Cetearyl Alcohol    
Good 
Used as an emollient, emulsifier, conditioner, and thickener. Not the same as SD alcohol or ethanol. This is actually a mixture of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 142]. This is one of the ingredients I like to see near the top of a conditioner's ingredient list. When left in very curly hair it adds needed weight without being greasy.—T 

Polysorbate 60    
Okay 
Used to keep products mixed together. Tends to be waxy [Winter pg 415]. Used for conditioning. A thick, yellow liquid or gel that's water soluble [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 338]. 
Source(s): Winter Hunting 

C12-15 alkyl benzoate    
Okay 
Used as an emollient, lubricant, humectant and thickener. 

Trideceth-6    (aka PEG-6 Tridecyl Ether) 
Okay 
A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating. Often found in moisturizing skin and hair care products [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2796]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529]. 
See also: Polyethylene glycol 
Source(s): Gottschalck Winter 

Disodium EDTA    
Okay 
Chelating ingredient that attracts the minerals away from the hair shaft and helps them rinse away. Good to use after swimming [Begoun]. Aso used as a preservative. Considered harmless in cosmetics at low levels. Sold as a water soluble white powder that is slightly acidic [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 185]. 
See also: Chelating agent EDTA 
Source(s): Begoun Hunting 

PVP    (aka Polyvinylpyrrolidone; 1-Vinyl-2-Pyrrolidone; PVP K90) 
Caution 
Used as a fixative, to hold hair together, to keep a product from separating. PVP has the consistency of egg whites [Winter (7th ed) pg 438; Gottschalk pg 2317-8]. Fine in gels, mousses and hairsprays, whose function is to keep your hair in place. May build up and make your hair sticky if used in shampoos or conditioners. —T 
See also: PVP 
Source(s): Winter Gottschalk 

PVP/VA copolymer    
Caution 
Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. These are best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky. 

PVP copolymer    
Caution 
Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. These are best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky. 


Panthenol    (aka Pantothenic acid, Vitamin B5) 
Good 
Form of vitamin B. Functions as a hair conditioner only. Works better in a leave-in product because otherwise it’s easily rinsed away. Can moisturize the hair to make it feel softer. Pantotheric acid is able to penatrate deeply into the cortex of the hair, but it is not able to repair hair, nor make hair strand thicker [Begoun Pgs 75, 85]. 

This is in two of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a 

* * * Tried and true ingredient * * * 
See also: Panthothenic acid 
Source(s): Begoun 

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate    (aka IPBC) 
Caution 
Used as a preservative. Begoun pg 1295. Fine in products that aren't going to be used as sprays. In Europe, it can't be used for oral care, lip-care products or lotions. IPBC is a whitish crystalline powder that contains iodine. It works by slowing down bacterial growth. It has been tested safe for humans according to the CIR Expert Panel, but should not be used in aerosol products. Winter pg 301-302. —I put a caution here, because there are some concerns about it being a bit more of an irritant than other preservatives (although all preservatives are potential irritants). Just beware of how this is being applied (you might not want to use it if it's in a hair spray , or for a child). —T 
See also: Preservative 

Butylene glycol    (aka 1,3 Butanediol) 
Good 
Excellent humectant, and it adds slipperiness. Very similar to Propylene Glycol [Begoun 1259, 1326]. This is known to be nearly nontoxic and nonirritating to regular skin. It's sold as a colorless solid that's water soluble. Butylene Glycol is thicker and less of a humectant than Propylene Glycol. Many times plant extracts are dissolved in Butylene Glycol. It also has some antimicrobial abilities, especially good at killing molds, but only when present in high amounts [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 130]. 

This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a 

* * * Tried and true ingredient * * * 
Source(s): Begoun Hunting 

Chitosan    
Caution 
Made from crab shells (chitin) which can cling to hair and make it feel thicker. Pg 394. —This might not be what tightly curly hair needs, however.—T It's also used as a film former and to hold hair in place. Gottschalck pg 347. 
See also: Film former Chitin 
Source(s): Begoun Gottschalck 

Sodium hydroxide    (aka Lye, Soda lye, Caustic soda) 
Avoid 
Known as “alkaline perms”. Often found in relaxers and texturizers. Highly caustic. Denatures hair and can dissolve it. In smaller concentrations, it's used as a pH adjuster. In higher concentrations, such as in relaxers, it can cause severe burns on skin. Begoun pg 155. Of the same pH found in oven cleaners, drain cleaners and hair removers. If you've ever relaxed your hair without gloves (hopefully not), and noticed your hands felt really slippery but it wouldn't wash off, here's why: "The reason sodium hydroxide feels slimy is because it is chemically reacting with the fatty acid esters and oils naturally found in your skin. Essentially, you’re turning bits of your skin into soap. (The reaction is called saponification). And as you know, soap is slippery.” 
See also: Lye 

Hydroxyethylcellulose    
Okay 
Thickener made from plants, often used as an emulsifier. This is known to be very mild, even in high concentrations [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 239-240]. 

Butylphenyl methylpropional    
Caution 
Synthetic fragrance with a floral-fresh scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin. 
See also: Irritant 

Amyl cinnamal    (aka Alpha-amyl cinnamic aldehyde) 
Caution 
Fragrance. Pale yellow liquid with a floral/ jasmine scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin. 
See also: Irritant 
Source(s): www.cosmeticsinfo.org 
Citronellol    
Caution 
Fragrant chemical that occurs naturally in many plant oils, certain fruits annd bevererages. Pale yellow oily liquid that has a scent of "sweet, rose, leather, musty, and floral." Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin. 
See also: Irritant 
Source(s): http://www.epa.gov 

Hydroxycitronellal    
Caution 
Synthetic, clear to yellow, oily liquitd. Used in perfumes. Has a sweet, floral, lily of the valley scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin. 
See also: Irritant 

Limonene    
Caution 
Component of many fragrant natural ingredients such as citrus oils (d-limonen), pine trees or mint (l-limonen). May cause scalp sensitivity. Best not to use it on a baby's scalp or skin. 
See also: Irritant 
Source(s): Begoun 

Linalool    
Caution 
Fragrance with a floral, lily scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin. 
See also: Irritant 


Reference:
Terry La Flesh’s ingredients directory at tightlycurly.com