Changing The Dial on Your Afro

The Roller Set

Before

There are various ways in which you can change your look. After about three to six months I really need a different look and to stop myself from doing anything permanent I opt instead for a blow dry and or a flatiron. I find that as long as I keep these destructive tendencies to a minimum I am still able to not feel stuck with one look.

I do adore my afro but I also like a bit of change.

Since you have already seen my straightened hair I will show a friends hair that I did recently. She's a career woman who dresses for the corporate environment and so the looks I chose for her reflected that specific dress-up hair.

Her hair was asked with Natures Gate shampoo and Conditioner. then detangled. It was set in rollers to dry with a hooded drier. Then a light blow and a flatiron. I used plenty of heat protectant and silicone to make sure I don't burn her hair. She has a beautiful Afro and at some point soon would like to return to it intact.

I like roller sets for various reasons. You choose the roller set based on the size curls you want. So if you want a straight look then you would choose barrel rollers like the ones I show here on my mom's head. You don't need to use heat with rollers. You can let it air-dry over an afternoon or overnight. Yes, I have slept with rollers in my head more times than i care to recall that pain. When the rollers dry they can become very tight and leave you with a headache. But the best results come from making it tight. The upside is that you only need to keep it in till its dry. In case your wondering i have not encountered one person with alopecia from tight rollers. It does not stay in long enough to cause that kind of damage.

Throughout the week I will show various ways to go from Afro to straight as well as the various curl sets one can do on an afro.

See her transformation here. 

Wash and conditioner

Blow wave

Side view

Front view

Left view

The not so Wash n Go

I love how easy we make it sound when we say ‘wash n go’ and ‘wet-look’. It sounds like you could just step under or spray water on your hair and done.  It makes me crack right up. Not even with the smoothest silkiest hair do you just wash n go. At the very least you will shape it, tuck it and tie it in a particular way.  Some of us can get away with the bare minimum of just a little bit of product and a tie. Those with hair like mine have to line up the products, section, systematically apply product that ultimately delays drying by many hours, get a shoulder drip cloth, drip the hair, wait the rest of the day or two for it to dry. Not so Wash n Go after all.

I know a lucky few women like my cousin Charmaine who has the perfect size curls that she barely every wears out. She could literally wash n go and look fabulous. She however prefers her hair straight and when she does do a ‘wash n go’ it it’s a secondary choice. It may take her only a few minutes but she still does more than just wash n go.  Lucky fish!

I am the latter type of curly girl who has to plan for at least an hour worth of work to wear my hair in a loose bush of curls. When I can’t budget this amount of time - I will look like I rolled out of bed a few minutes ago. My curls just don’t look very defined, smooth and detangled.

When I first went natural eight years ago I was utterly frustrated with keeping my hair tangle free once it hit mid-length. Nothing I tried worked. Which ultimately led to the creation of the silk helmet. A satin bonnet that I created to help improve the state of my dry hair. Once I had the bonnet I was frustrated with and obsessed with getting the perfect set of curls. I would toil with this idea for another few years till I figured it out.

All I wanted was to have some curls that could hang on my shoulders. This is the object of my pursuit to curl happiness. Single stand knots would eventually cost me lots of length. I found that the more I twisted my wet hair the more knots I got. I have since stopped the frequent twisting and I have had a massive reduction in knots.

My hair wet shrinks a massive amount to just barely grazing my shoulders. When I blow it out however I am blown away that the back of my hair is bra-strap length. My hair-goal for this year is to grow it all evenly to my mid bicep. Perhaps by end of next year I could grow it to my elbow in full curls. What also surprises me is how different I look depending on how I wear my hair. I love how versatile my natural hair is. 

For now I toil with moisture, because this is the one single thing that will make sure my hair does not break and I am able to retain my length. I always search for new things so that I can share those with you. Stay tuned and lets get healthy and long hair.

SHL

LOVE NATURALLY

Traction Alopecia

My question to Doc Alexander:

What is traction alopecia? Have you encountered cases of this type of hair loss that does not have a medical basis? 

Does excessive pulling on hair such as with the use of braids and weaves have a negative impact on scalp and hair health?

Can the treatment for hair loss improve hairline loss of this type? 

Here’s what our resident hair guru had to say:

Yes, traction alopecia certainly does exist. Often, the genetic recession seen in the temple areas of women with ethnic hair is mistaken for traction alopecia, which is not the case.

True traction alopecia can occur in anyone who puts lengthy excessive strain on their hair follicles or roots. This can be caused by braiding, weaving or hair extensions used in excess over a period of time.

Eventually, through continuous pulling of the hair, the follicle will become damaged and may never again be able to produce a healthy hair. In cases such as these, no medical treatment will work as the follicle has suffered permanent damage. Hair transplantation can be attempted but may only yield limited success.

I remember once treating a young lady, who throughout her high school career had tied her hair extremely tightly back into a ponytail. Subsequently, this young lady lost all of the hair on the sides of her head and it could never be resurrected to grow back despite using the most advanced medical treatment available.

I think that the solution to the problem of traction alopecia is for it to be prevented from occurring in the first place.

Best regards,

There it is ladies. You can prevent traction alopecia. Do so because you cannot treat it or cure it.

Love Naturally

SHL

Weave Know How

Weave know how: Care for your hair

Image courtesy of Justchic

Wearing a weave has many benefits. It saves time and manipulation of hair.  By its covered structure it can fall under protective styling. Weave know how from correct installation, maintenance and takedown can ensure it is a protective style. A correctly installed weave can really add to ones appearance. So why are weaves constantly in the spotlight for the wrong reasons?

Weave Guidelines:

Have your weave installed by someone who knows what to do and what not to do. Unless you are sure your installer is skilled go to a salon.

The balance of your scalp

A weave is not a replacement for your natural hair. It has to go on and it has to come off. Cleansing your scalp whether dry, oily or even normal is essential. Not cleaning your scalp for an extended period of time will create an imbalance that will cause problems for your skin and hair.

Installation:

The tracks should not be too tight. Insist that your braider uses the right amount of tension. Excessive pull during braiding will result in too much tension on your own hair and can lead to a variety of hair and scalp issues. Causing: irritation, inflammation and pustules (pimples) that are related to traction alopecia. If you feel an intense burn, itching, pulling sensation or headache after installing tracks they are too tight. Ensure your braider is clear on your needs and if tracks are too tight redo them. She may not be happy but would you rather irritate your braider or lose your hair?

The weight of the weave

Weaves can be much heavier than a regular head of hair, particularly if you prefer wearing a longer weave. Choose the right amount of bundles for your face but be mindful of the added weight. The weight of the weave has two impacts: If you wash the weave on your head it becomes much heavier once it is submerged in water. Weight means more pulling. Best practice is to remove the weave and wash it and your own hair separately.

Stitching

If you are sewing a weave always use a blunt needle. Sharp needles can damage your hair. Do not sew into the seam- this can cause shedding. Instead go over and under to attach it.

Glue is a contentious issue for me. Often the chemicals in the glue can have irritating effects. Plus the chemicals used for the removals inevitably end up on your hair and skin. Be careful with these. Check what is being used. Read about the effects of both the adhesives and the removers.

Maintenance:

You may not like the next suggestion and while it may be more expensive, you have to take down a weave at least every month.

Here’s why:

Every month your natural hair grows slightly. The tracks will shift and the weave becomes progressively mobile.  Here’s the problem- this causes your hair to hang slightly and creates greater pull. Weaves are often much heavier than the hair on your head. The weight of the weave may seem insignificant but it can cause a significant pull in a mobile state if left too long.  The top of the weave (the sewed line) does not have the smoothest surface. It can cause friction that can break your hair if the stitching loosens. Maintain loose parts of your weave ASAP or it will damage your hair. Loose tracks or tracks with growth also makes your weave uneven-it looks a lot less symmetrical and takes away from a neat look.

Weaves can have side effects of dry/flaky scalp or oil build-up. This is not an easy problem to solve. The quick response is to oil your scalp. Oil does not stay fresh forever. Oil left in the heat of the sun will become rancid (spoil). Oil left on your scalp for weeks can clog your pores. Add to this the sweating, products, dust and lint floating around, moisture from a bath or shower and you have a recipe for disaster.

Remember that every part of your body has hair follicles and pores. While oil is great for hair, frequent scalp oiling without cleansing is not a good idea. You would not apply oil on your face every day without washing it off, why would you do it to your hair? Apply the oil to your hair. Leave your scalp clean to breath and let the hair grow. Oils are better as pre-poo and wash off treatments. Apply it to your hair before you weave and use sparingly while wearing a weave and consider a water- based moisturizer instead of oil under a weave.

Anytime your hair is put under tension it will itch. Do not scratch your scalp with your nails or a sharp pin. Hands are the constantly exposed to bacteria. Nails can trap bacteria and transfer it to your scalp and cause problems. Sharp pins can break your skin and cause infections. Steer clear of these two things. Pat it if you must!

If you are using a lace front weave be careful of the chemicals used to attach your weave to your skin as these can have irritating effects. Never ever reinstall a weave if you notice skin problems during removal. Check your scalp before re-installing a weave to make sure you don’t have any reactions.

A partial weave often requires some of your hair to be relaxed and left out. This hair then also needs to be frequently styled to blend into the weave. Typically this is the front section of the hair taking constant chemical, manipulation and or heat that can end up damaging this section of hair. Instead consider a full weave without leaving any hair out.

If you are using foundation to blend the parting in the weave do it lightly and before installation to prevent old product sitting on your scalp. Use only small amounts to touch up when needed. You would not leave foundation on your face for more than a day so why would you do it on your hair? That product will sit there and go rancid potentially blocking your pores and or causing skin issues.

I have come across strange things used to mask hairline issues. Mascara, powders and even shoe polish. Do not apply these things to your skin. They were not made for this purpose.  There are actual products on the market made for this reason. Look for one of these instead. A brown mat eye shadow or face powder will work well but should not be left on your skin or hair for more than one day.

When combing your weave be gentle. Start detangling at the ends and work your way up to minimize shedding.

The takedown

Carefully separate your own hair before washing. Anytime your hair has been constricted for more than a week the dead hairs, fluff and oils have mixed and can cause massive tangles. Carefully detangle your hair with your fingers. Remove any fluff and knots before you wash your hair. Always follow this with a conditioner and a deep treatment. Conditioners and treatments help to restore moisture that helps curb breakage.

Do wash your weave with a shampoo and a conditioner. It will help keep it in good shape to reuse. Do dry the weave completely before reinstalling it. Wet hair can cause significantly more tension on your own hair than dry hair. Wet hair is also a good breeding ground for nasty bacteria.

Finally, if your edges are receding (breaking) consider an alternative to a weave.  A wig and clip on hair extensions are good alternatives. Inspect your hair and scalp at the takedown phase to see if there are any issues. Only re-install a weave if you are sure your scalp and hair are able to handle it.

A special mention to my Friend Sbahle- A weave veteran who shared her best practices.

Love your hair

SHL

Braid Know How

The most common hairstyles are various types of braids. The benefits are clear the pitfalls are not. Here are some do’s and don’ts to using this versatile style tool to your advantage.

The benefits of braids are clear. The time saving element alone is well worth the hours spent installing them. Styling is then simplified and getting ready is a speedy process.  This can be a welcome relief from having to stress about what style to wear next.

Braids also offer the option of crochet that can save more time since braiding can be done in advance and then the single braids are simply installed. Two hours max and you could have a fully braided head. This type of braiding Is not common here but it is definitely worth looking into.

Braid sizes:

Micro braids: The most sought after type of single braids. These teeny weeny braids that are the size of a needle may look good but can put an immense amount of pressure on your hair.

Mid-size braids: these are the size of a flower stem. They are definitely much better in terms of pressure on the scalp.

Box braids: these are the pinky finger size braids. Here again one is moving towards the heavy side.

Jumbo braid: this size is beyond pinky finger size.

How to choose the size of the braids:

The smaller the braids (the extension) the smaller the section of hair on the scalp (scalp dot) has to be. The longer the braid gets the heavier the pressure on the scalp becomes. So you have to try and get a good balance between length of the braids and the size of the scalp.  So, if you want longer braids then make them thicker so that there is more of a balance between the weight of the hair and the size of the sections on your head.

Natural hair can tolerate smaller scalp sections since unprocessed hair is less fragile. Processed hair tends to be finer and so smaller braids could cause more breakage.

The pitfalls of braiding

Too tight:

You never want to have your braids installed too tight. This may seem to be a good idea because it may look neater for longer but it not good for scalp and hair. Tight braids that cause rashes on your edges are a big problem. These rashes can get infected and cause widespread scalp problems. When you have your hair braided ask your braider not to pull your hair too much.

Over wear:

Braids that are left in for too long can cause massive hair breakage especially around your edges. Those little white roots that become visible at the base of your braid is the root of your hair being pulled out of the follicle. Remove braids after two weeks to a month. This may seem like a waste but leaving them in for longer may be costing you hair.  Yes hair, if the braid is actually pulling your hair out which would you rather choose your money or your hair?

Removing braids:

Unless you are absolutely sure do not chop the braid extensions to speed up the removal process. I have chopped entire sections of my own hair off while in a hurry to remove braids in record time. Undo a few braids in a section to make sure where your hair ends. Chop a few cm below that point.

Detangling hair:

Often once braids are removed hair is very tangled. Also depending on how long you have had the braids detangling your hair before you wash it is a very good idea. Often when braids are removed there is a ball of tangle on every braid. This often looks like a little white ball of fluff. It is a mixture of oils and lint that has to be removed before you wash your hair. Do not try and comb or brush it out. This may just cause more knotting. Instead use your hands to separate these knots and remove them before you apply shampoo to your scalp. If you find a few that are tough to get out apply some conditioner and use fingers to gently pull the knot apart. Remove all lint and fluff before you wash your hair. You can even use a hair oil to do this. The hair oil is then also a pre-poo and treatment for your hair before the shampoo.

When your hair comes out of braids there will be plenty of dead hair that has to be removed. Do not try and wildly comb the hair as quickly as possible. Patience and gentle movements will ensure you don’t break your hair unnecessarily. It will also make the entire process less painful