The Mighty Grains

The benefit of using protein is common in hair care literature. However, what exactly to use and easy ways to use effective proteins are still sparse. I find too many hair posts that recommend egg and mayonnaise as hair treatments. Also, very little is done to describe how proteins help with moisture in hair. Below find effective means of using proteins to keep your hair moisturized this summer.

Protein makes up about 90% of the composite of hair. The structural bonds of these proteins is a string of amino acids (18 in total) that are in turn made up of sulfur, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen and carbon. The bonds are joined together by peptides. Two essential elements required for hair are proteins and moisture.

However, in order to be effective proteins need to be of a particular size in order to penetrate the hair. These ideal proteins are referred to as hydrolyzed. Meaning that the large molecular structure of protein has been processed into smaller units. These proteins can originate from a variety of plant (wheat, soy and rice and oats) and animal sources (milk protein, egg protein, silk protein and glycol-protein).  These proteins function to increase hair absorption meaning it is helps to increase moisture in hair. It strengthens hair, improves elasticity, shine, softness and smooth hair.

Proteins that need a special mention:

Wheat protein (Wheat amino acids)

Enables hair to both receive and retain moisture.  Wheat proteins have an ideal molecular weight at 150-2000 to penetrate hair at deeper levels. What that means is healthier hair possibly better looking hair as well.

Keratin Protein

Can be of human or animal origin. Sheep Wool is commonly used as well with a weight of about 1100-3300. Human hair can be hydrolysed to a 150-2000 molecular weight. Gives strength and plasticity.  Said to be the most potent protein as it is closest to the actual composition of hair. High in cysteine- typically lost during chemical processing of hair. Is used to give hair strength and plasticity, moisture and shine.

Silk Protein (Silk Amino Acid)

Silk protein has a small molecular structure that makes it ideal for hair. It has a durability quality that makes it popular for use in a range of products.

Note that proteins of animal and vegetable origin interact differently with hair. Animal proteins refine into fatty acids that coat hair. Typically these products stiffen and harden on hair as they stay on the outer layer. In contrast vegetable ones penetrate the hair. Thus gives more moisture benefit. What you want is a protein/moisture balance.

Lets look at the use of Gelatin.

Gelatin is a great source of protein, easily accessible and easy to use. Gelatin however does not absorb into the hair.  Recall the Olympic games?  One of the uses of gelatin is for the perfectly non-moving hairstyles of synchronized swimmers. What if you are vegetarian and was thinking of using Agar instead? Don’t! Agar is the perfect breeding ground for all sorts of ‘nasties’. In fact it is so good at that job that Agar is used in laboratory testing of the stability and preservative quality of products. Save the Agar for your food. Unless you have an amazing broad-spectrum preservative to ensure whatever you have made stays usable.

How to get protein into your hair?

The best way to get protein into your hair is to eat protein rich foods. I completely hate this thought as it is hard enough for me just to remember to eat because I have to.  So, hearing that a good diet gives good hair is just not my idea of fun. Still, it is what it is. Your body has the immaculate ability to hydrolyse proteins and use them where necessary.  I am also not a big believer in supplements as the scientific proof of their benefit is slim at best and often way too inflated by pop culture.

Should option one make you as unhappy as it does me then the next option is to buy these in ready made, packed and easy to use hair treatments.

Option Three (my favourite). Find ways to get your protein fix in a DIY product.

Oils- Wheat germ, rice bran, soy oil and oat oil are a good place to start

Rinses: Rice water/fermented rice water/rice vinegar

Powders: Rice flour, oat flour, Soy flour, and whey powder

Using the oils as pre-poo (Wheat germ, Soy, oat or rice bran)

A friend recently shared her amazing results using wheat germ oil on her hair as a pre-poo treatment. The way she uses it is as follows:

Apply the oil to wet hair and cover with a shower cap. Use a hot wet towel and cover the head and shower cap. Repeat this process a few times ensuring that the towel stays warm to create a heat cap. Keep on for about an hour and wash as usual. She has a head of beautiful hair and attributes it to the use of wheat germ oil. (See her stunning pictures below)

Rinses (Rice water)

To make rice water:

½-1 cup of rice

10-12 cups of water

(essential oils- optional)

Raw rice method:

Place rice in bowl and rinse to remove debris.

Add water and let it rest for about 48hrs

The rice will ferment and impart colour into the water.

When the rice water is fermented bring it to a simmer to stop the fermentation. Decant the water into a jar and leave in fridge to use. The water will stay fresh for about a week. So only make it when you can use it.

Cooked rice method:

Boil the rice in the water until cooked and drain the water into a bowl. You can either ferment the rice water or cool it and store it in the fridge.

Rice Vinegar:

Brown rice vinegar is rich in amino acids. Good quality rice vinegars have a sediment at the bottom that when shaken gives it a cloudy appearance. 

There goes my love for Apple Cider vinegar.

*I have used rice flour and whey powder on my hair before in protein potions. I have not had any problems with it. However, please note that whey and soy have been linked to controversial research on hair applications. Some research indicates soy isolates as a culprit to hair fall. Soy has also recently come under fire by the medical fraternity for containing hormones that can cause health problems. Please do some research before embarking on a trial for new natural products. Read before testing it on yourself.

Sources:

http://articles.latimes.com/2009/oct/25/image/ig-weirdhair25

http://www.worldofhaircare.com/index.php/keratin-protein

(http://urbanbushbabes.com/all-about-different-types-of-proteins/)

Hair oils, Waxes and Butters

*Note- if you are trying a scent or herbal property for the first time. Please do a sensitivity test. All natural products can be irritant. Be safe and test a small amount on your inner arm. Should you have a bad reaction it will be on a small patch and in a place that can be easily hidden.

Hair oils, waxes and butters used correctly can give hair life and lustre. They come in different forms with different structures and can be so versatile to be adapted and changed to suit your hair needs.

There is much debate as to which are good, better and why. Some are easier to use than others and are readily usable to targeting immediate hair concerns. Others however need a bit of processing to change the structure slightly to be used effectively. I am that crazy person who applies first and asks questions later. I have had many mishaps due to this curious nature. 

While oils can be easily used on their own.Waxes and butters tend to work better when they are emulsified into oils. They apply beautifully to the hair and do a great job of softening and slipping making it an absolute joy to use. 

My list of favourites:

Carrier Oils include: They are used to carry/ or infuse with other things such as herbs for either their scent or their functional properties.

*Note that carrier oils can be applied in larger amounts. However a few tablespoons at a time is usually enough unless you have very long hair. Also, when applying oils it is not necessary to apply it to your scalp. If you do, be sure to wash your scalp with either a co-wash or a shampoo. You do not want to cause buildup and blocked pores. Your scalp contains oils already. If you oversupply oil you can affect this balance and create problems. The more oil you add the less oil your scalp will produce.

Frequent washing of hair with stripping agents can lead to either an oil overreaction where your scalp overproduces oils to rectify this balance. Or it could lead to your hair becoming crispy and needing more product to remain moisturised.

So think of the current state of your hair in relation to what your current process is.

Olive oil

Grape seed oil

Jojoba oil

Coconut oil

Sweet Almond

Sunflower oil

Peach Kernel oil

Broccoli Seed oil

Crambe Seed oil

Meadowfoam Seed oil

Carrot tissue oil

Safflower oil

Rice Bran oil

Wheat Germ oil

Argan oil

Castor oil

Vitamin E oil

Neem Oil

Essential oils: These are concentrated oils used to scent or boost carrier oils with a functional properties. Essential oils should not be heated as this can cause breakdown in their functions for application. As aromatherapy yes, do heat them but not in hair and skincare. Also, these oils are potent so a few drops are plenty to be effective.

*Note that these concentrated oils should never be applied unmixed to your hair or skin. They require a carrier oil to mix into.

Rose

Rose-Geranium blend

Jasmine

Sandalwood

Ylang Ylang

Tea Tree

Bergamot

Lavender

Rosemary

Not at all a long list these are only my favourites. 

Butters: These are solid oils. They are similar to oils however they are heavier. Are better suited as pre-treatments to nourish hair.

*Some butters like Shea can give an ashy look to your hair if used on their own. Because they are solid at room temperature they don't melt as easily as a coconut butter. Shea is best used melted and mixed with other oils to change this compact structure. 

Shea Butter

Cocoa Butter

Mango Butter

Olive Butter

Mowrah butter

Sal butter

Illipe Butter

Coffee butter

Waxes: Have several functions, water has a polar molecular structure and oil has a non-polar molecular structure. Thus they do not attract one another and do not mix. Once a wax product is added they are able to mix by means of emulsion. So, lotions and creams of aqueous bases are possible.  

Beeswax

Jojoba wax

Olive Wax

Rice Bran wax

BTMS

I enjoy making my own products. I find it rewarding. I am that kind of DIY person. I had spent years trying to find products that would just do some good to my hair. i have recently come across some very promising ones. I enjoy using them. They are eco-friendly, organic, they are free of much of the yuk out in the market. I love how they make my hair look and feel. I will share some of these with you later. 

Here are some images of my oil blends, pre-poo treatments and conditioners. 

Various oils 

Butters and emulsions

Coconut, Cocoa, Aloe Hair Cream

Rooibos, Olive, Shea, Sandalwood Hair cream

Hair cream emulsion

Hair cream absorbed into my skin

A Hair Regime

Hair care is similar to a diet. It can be very simple or it can be complex. It is simple when you want to do the minimum and you are happy with that outcome. I know plenty of women who wear mapondo’s religiously and are happy with the occasional twist-out.  I know equally as many who want their hair to look amazing and invest endlessly to get there. So, when you decide on hair care ask yourself some questions.

A simple routine can be as straightforward as using the basic building blocks of a shampoo, conditioner and some moisturizer- done. Here my only advice is that you invest in quality hair products since this may mean your routine is more spaced out thus the ingredients in products and effects thereof may stay longer on your hair and skin. Don’t ignore product ingredients.

A complex routine is the exact opposite where one is constantly chopping and changing. Product hunting, advise seeking and the like.  It is laborious and often a hit and miss set of archery.

Everyone’s idea of balance is different. An intensive routine can be taxing both of time and money. It can lead to a significant reward when one is happy and feels amazing.

So ask yourself the following questions:

Are you happy with the current state of your hair? If yes, then leave it alone- you are done.

What exactly are you trying to do with your hair. This is an important question since unless you can define where you are trying to go then how will you know when you get there? Create a hair checklist. Keep it simple and short if possible. You can edit as you go along but there is no point in getting all worked up about 20 different things. I’d say pick 5 or less.

What extent of investment are you willing to dedicate to your hair. Some hair regimes are insanely long-winded, confusing, and costly.

Be realistic. This is harder than you think. I want waist length hair and although I know it will take another 8 years I often lament my hair.

Be realistic. The natural state of your hair and the process you put it through will determine whether or not you can achieve hair goals.  Find out if it is at all feasible. If yes, then ask what it will take to get there. Finally, answer: am I willing to do what it takes?

Let me clarify.

Can anybody grow hair? The answer is yes unless there is an underlying medical condition that may temporarily or permanently put a break in this process.

Can anybody grow healthy hair? The answer is yes.

Given that all things are equal; can anybody regrow bald patches? That depends on the source. If it is internal then sorting out the internal should improve the external. If it is topical (on the skin) then it depends on the cause, duration and severity of the condition. These specific concerns will be dealt with in a separate post.

Is any hairstyle possible? Yes, however not all hairstyles can be done without some risk of damage. Again they can be adapted but may not have the exact look.

Don’t surprise yourself. Decide, inform and enjoy your hair. The factors of damage and health are common knowledge. Yet so many of us repeat the same process, have the same negative outcomes and are surprised. The expectation you have of your hair has to be in line with what you are doing to your hair. You have to know that if I do x then y may or will happen. That way you can evaluate the risks and make decisions that are appropriate for your life. I neither like nor do I advocate ascription. There is no point in doing things that will make you unhappy.

Why am I stating these very obvious facts? Because I still encounter so many women who adhere to hair myths. Some surprise themselves. Others just do not believe that a healthy head of hair is possible. Or that long hair is a mystery or that there is a miracle product that can solve their hair problems.

There are factors of health simple- cleanse, condition, moisturize, use an appropriate cover and minimize heat. There are factors of damage-health, stress, friction, tension and temperature and chemicals. Not rocket science at all. The things that will give you healthy and long hair are patience, time and not cutting it off.

Happy Hair Dreams

SHL

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