Curly Kids 'The love of long'

In conversation with an 8 year old curly girl 

I have two little girls who have the most beautiful heads of curly hair. When they were younger they only wished to have straight hair. It is the thing that they ask for given any choice. I am always baffled by their reasoning, since they have only known me with natural hair. Over the years  we have had many hair talks. Some very strict ones and some just fun ones. 

I explain to my kids that we are all made different. That external beauty is not an achievement, it is neither here nor there. I impress upon them to know that their worlds are small and in these small worlds of theirs they are treasured. That they need not be concerned what the big wide world thinks of them because it has absolutely no bearing on their lives. That our control begins and ends with ourselves. That their vision of themselves should not be dependent on what anyone else thinks about them. Still, as much as I do the drill I often find them trying to change the way they look. And being concerned about what the external feedback is. Still, I am reminded that beauty is a ‘thing’ with little girls. 

Over the last week I surveyed a few little girls and all of them expressed the desire for what they call ‘long hair’. Every favourite hair style description contained the word ‘long’. Every child I spoke to chose someone else’s hair as their ideal. Followed by the word ‘long’. 

My eight year old can reason well beyond her age, she’s truly gifted in many ways and still the idea of beauty bothers her. I persistently try to redirect her toward a higher self-realisation, to excellence and achievements in the various aspects of her life. It is astounding just how much is expected of the modern child. In my day there was school, a regular smack and a more regular smack. Now we have conscientious parenting and my young adult kids look at me with disdain as I threaten them within an inch of their lives. Just kidding- They are a gifts from God. 

The standard response from my kids are: ‘can you make my hair long?’ I reply with: Your hair is long. To which she says: not with these curls. Her curls fall on her shoulders even though her hair is actually down to her waist. To which she says: people think i have short hair. My response: but you know that you have long hair. And so we circle. Once a year she gets a choice of hairstyle for her birthday and true as the sun rises in the East she wants it ‘long’. on this one day I allow her to do it with a smile. The rest of the 364 days, she’s fresh out of luck. I can’t impose my will on her forever, but I can fro now and I will not allow my child to feel like she has to change what she looks like to be accepted. I tell her: waterpower does not work. So cry if you want to it will help your curls into shape. 

In short little people have little people concerns. In their world of little things are big things. As parents we need to continually reinforce the ideas we hope will stick and discourage the ones we deem useless. Why is beauty a ‘thing’ for little people. Is it TV shows? Is it the still dominant social discourse that ‘girls are made of sugar and spice and all things nice’ and do fairy tales and stories inevitably lead to the idea that it is beauty that wins? Why aren't there more stories about the smart girl? the strong girl? the achiever? How is it that Barbie is eternally etched into the ideal? 

I for one embraced monster dolls. Scary as they may seem, they are different. They have blue and pink skin. They dress up in crazy outfits. They are different and I like the idea that a child can like something out of the norm. Its been a week and Miss thing makes sure she wears her silk helmet to make sure the hair stays straight. Come Friday its back to our curly selves. 

Love Naturally

SHL

The Truth about Curls

In my very humble opinion, curls are there because they are there. You can obviously style straight hair into curls but you cannot take damaged curls that are now straight to curly. Depending on the amount of damage you may be able to make curls look better but once a curl has been killed off by a chemical or heat there is no coming back without a scissor. Just a note to keep in mind. 

So for example if you have dyed your hair and its now frizzy then curl creams will help give a very smooth appearance. But without it your hair will poof up high. If you have a looser curl pattern then it will smooth it out as well and will give a more manicured look. most of the time when you see a natural curly afro those curls are there regardless. They may not always be neat and perfect but they are in the structure of the hair. You can style straight hair say with a straw set or flexi rods but those would be temporary. You can perm it and it may look good for a few weeks until the chemicals start eating away at your hair. 

Hair products CAN enhance the way your hair looks. It can improve what is already there. Products CANNOT make curls appear. Styling can create curls temporarily but these will revert over time into whatever your natural hair is. While many curly girls spend their lives fighting to get rid of their ringlets some of us spend a our lives getting it into the best shape. I love my curls and I want them around forever!

I have said this before- most (not all) naturals of African descent hair will have some curl to their hair. For other groups of people such as Caucasian and South Asians curls are a particular type of hair. So you get the full spectrum of straight to wavy, curly and tightly curly. To my surprise once my hair was in its best condition I realised the several different curl patterns I have on my head. Some curls are as tiny as a toothpick. Which is why a comb or brush is not a good idea for my hair as these tiny rings once separated can cause a big football on top of my head. 

Curls weigh down a lot better with product in the hair. So even with a leave in conditioner a curl cream can work wonders for making sure the hair stays moisturised and in place. A big bush of hair can soak up a significant amount of product. Which is why I often recommend you water down the products so you don’t end up wasting. Alternatively you could also apply products to the roots of completely water soaked hair and let it slowly run off working it into the hair as it does. 

Here’s a handy tip with leave in products. Apply the product to the front and top sections of your hair first. That way the excess product can run down your head and onto the parts you are working on. I found that when out of habit I start at the nape of my neck and up by the time i reach the mid section of my head the product at the base of my neck is on my back. With an upright posture the product runs off fairly quickly. So do the top first and then the bottom. I also like to cover my hair with a shower cap while I’m busy in the bath or shower to make sure it does not get washed out. When I’m done I tilt my head and fold forward to give the product a chance to run up my head and back down again. 

This is also why using a shampoo is not a bad idea at all. With leave in hair products including conditioners, curl creams, oils and anything else you put on your hair you do have to completely clean your scalp in between. If you don’t you run the risk of build up and ashy hair. You can also cause scalp imbalances. As the left over product on your skin just sits there as more oil from your scalp pushes out. Even dry flaky residues may actually be residual product and or dead skin cells which needs to be removed. Do be friends with a shampoo. 

LOVE Naturally 

SHL

Catwalk by TIGI: Review

The Silver Platter

Catwalk by TIGI- Curls Rock Amplifier

What it is: A curl cream that promises to separate and define your curls. 

First Impression: This product has received rave reviews on the curly wire. It appears to be a popular product and when you first look at the very pretty packaging of black and pretty metallic blue it certainly has a ‘buy me’ look. The description is also on point with the promise to give great curls. 

I am torn with TIGI products. On the one hand it is great that there are products available that speak to the need of naturals with curly hair. On the other I have concerns with the ingredients in these products. I am not comfortable with using products that have a few good ingredients and the bulk of the ingredients have a ‘caution’ and or ‘avoid’ label on them. Particularly since hair products are used on a regular basis and is will make contact with the skin. 

There are many products we use on a regular basis that may not be good for our health. You may still want to use them if they are going to do what you want. Make the choice for yourself. Also, to dissect a product takes a lot of effort. Very few people go to the shop and reference every single ingredient in a product, Its just not practical. To show you the amount of effort I have taken one of the products and done a complete workup for you to look at. Often I would just say its good, its on the fence or I would actually just leave it out altogether. So have a look at the list of ingredients below and see what happens when the information is presented in detail. 

I know that most readers don’t want this level of detail. You want the quick view and this is a lot to digest. However, there may be some of you who would like to get the full picture. Either way, share your thoughts. 

Love Naturally

SHL

The Ingredients: 

Polyquarternium-37    

Caution 

Used to keep down fly-aways due to static electricity. Also used as a hair fixative, so this means it can build up in your hair with repeated use, making it sticky or crunchy. Fine in gels or styling products, but use caution in shampoos and conditioners. There is also concern that it tends to build up in the environment. 

Source(s): http://www.cosmeticdatabase.com/ingredient.php?ingred06=705113¬hanks=1 

Polyquaternium-11    (aka Quaternium-32) 

Caution 

This clings to hair to make it feel thicker. It also helps make hair easier to comb [Begoun (Beauty) Pg 303]. Made from cellulose. Used as a film-former (coats the hair) and to keep product from separating. Gives hair shine [Winter pg 435]. This is a resin that produces some build up. used for conditioning, to increase ease of combing, and to give body. It isn't found to be toxic [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 335]. —I'm putting this as a caution because it looks like it may build up in our hair and become sticky over time. That's fine in a styling aid, where you expect hold, but be cautious of it in shampoos and conditioners. Also, this is known to increase body, which is not what those of us with really curly hair needs.—T 

See also: Quaternary ammonium compound 

Source(s): Begoun Hunting Winter 

Cycloheptasiloxane    (aka Cyclomethicone; Polydimethylcyclosiloxane) 

Good 

A type of Silicone known as a Cyclomethicone. Used as a hair and skin conditioner, and increases slip in products [Schueller pgs 172-173]. See Cyclomethicone. 

See also: Cyclomethicone 

Source(s): Schueller 

Proplylene glycol    (aka 1,2-Propanediol) 

Okay 

Humectant. This is a clear, colorless, thick liquid. Can penetrate the skin better than glycerin, but is less expensive. Second in moisture-carrying abilities only to water. Can also be used to dissolve ingredients (in the way that water can dissolve them). Winter pg 428. Rumors have circulated that it is bad, but there is no research validating this. For more information, check out Propylene Glycol Begoun pg 1326. 

Source(s): Begoun Winter 

Phenoxyethanol    

Okay 

Preservative believed to be less irritating than others. Can also be used as a fragrance [Winter pg 399]. 

Phenoxyethanol is mild to the skin but can be hugely irritating to eyes—though it isn't found to be irritating in the tiny amounts normally used in products. Surprisingly, it also has some conditioning and emollient properties. 

This is an oily, white to off-white liquid that smells a bit like roses. It doesn't dissolve easily in water, but will in ethanol or alkaline environments. Though Phenoxyethanol kills bacteria, it doesn't kill all types of them, so it's often combined with other anti-bacterial ingredients to kill all bacteria that may form in a product. Because it is conditioning, Phenoxyethanol may be found more often in conditioners or cosmetics, or shampoos meant to be moisturizing. The problem with Phenoxyethanol is that you do have to use higher amounts to do the job, and since it smells like roses, it may be hard to cover up the scent (if you aren't wanting your product to smell rosy) [Hunting (Shampoo) pg 317-318]. This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a 

* * * Tried and true ingredient * * * 

See also: Preservative 

Source(s): Winter Hunting 

Cetearyl Alcohol    

Good 

Used as an emollient, emulsifier, conditioner, and thickener. Not the same as SD alcohol or ethanol. This is actually a mixture of Cetyl Alcohol and Stearyl Alcohol [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 142]. This is one of the ingredients I like to see near the top of a conditioner's ingredient list. When left in very curly hair it adds needed weight without being greasy.—T 

See also: Fatty alcohol Cetyl alcohol Stearyl alcohol 

Source(s): Hunting http://www.cosmeticscop.com/ 

Polysorbate 60    

Okay 

Used to keep products mixed together. Tends to be waxy [Winter pg 415]. Used for conditioning. A thick, yellow liquid or gel that's water soluble [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 338]. 

Source(s): Winter Hunting 

C12-15 alkyl benzoate    

Okay 

Used as an emollient, lubricant, humectant and thickener. 

Source(s): http://www.cosmeticscop.com/ 

Trideceth-6    (aka PEG-6 Tridecyl Ether) 

Okay 

A synthetic ingredient used to keep products from separating. Often found in moisturizing skin and hair care products [Gottschalck 12th ed., pgs 2796]. Similar to Polyethylene glycols. The number indicates the thickness of the particular Trideceth [Winter 7th ed., pg 529]. 

See also: Polyethylene glycol 

Source(s): Gottschalck Winter 

Disodium EDTA    

Okay 

Chelating ingredient that attracts the minerals away from the hair shaft and helps them rinse away. Good to use after swimming [Begoun]. Aso used as a preservative. Considered harmless in cosmetics at low levels. Sold as a water soluble white powder that is slightly acidic [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 185]. 

See also: Chelating agent EDTA 

Source(s): Begoun Hunting 

PVP    (aka Polyvinylpyrrolidone; 1-Vinyl-2-Pyrrolidone; PVP K90) 

Caution 

Used as a fixative, to hold hair together, to keep a product from separating. PVP has the consistency of egg whites [Winter (7th ed) pg 438; Gottschalk pg 2317-8]. Fine in gels, mousses and hairsprays, whose function is to keep your hair in place. May build up and make your hair sticky if used in shampoos or conditioners. —T 

See also: PVP 

Source(s): Winter Gottschalk 

PVP/VA copolymer    

Caution 

Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. These are best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky. 

PVP copolymer    

Caution 

Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. These are best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky. 

Panthenol    (aka Pantothenic acid, Vitamin B5) 

Good 

Form of vitamin B. Functions as a hair conditioner only. Works better in a leave-in product because otherwise it’s easily rinsed away. Can moisturize the hair to make it feel softer. Pantotheric acid is able to penatrate deeply into the cortex of the hair, but it is not able to repair hair, nor make hair strand thicker [Begoun Pgs 75, 85]. 

This is in two of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a 

* * * Tried and true ingredient * * * 

See also: Panthothenic acid 

Source(s): Begoun 

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate    (aka IPBC) 

Caution 

Used as a preservative. Begoun pg 1295. Fine in products that aren't going to be used as sprays. In Europe, it can't be used for oral care, lip-care products or lotions. IPBC is a whitish crystalline powder that contains iodine. It works by slowing down bacterial growth. It has been tested safe for humans according to the CIR Expert Panel, but should not be used in aerosol products. Winter pg 301-302. —I put a caution here, because there are some concerns about it being a bit more of an irritant than other preservatives (although all preservatives are potential irritants). Just beware of how this is being applied (you might not want to use it if it's in a hair spray , or for a child). —T 

See also: Preservative 

Source(s): Begoun Winter http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=384 

Butylene glycol    (aka 1,3 Butanediol) 

Good 

Excellent humectant, and it adds slipperiness. Very similar to Propylene Glycol [Begoun 1259, 1326]. This is known to be nearly nontoxic and nonirritating to regular skin. It's sold as a colorless solid that's water soluble. Butylene Glycol is thicker and less of a humectant than Propylene Glycol. Many times plant extracts are dissolved in Butylene Glycol. It also has some antimicrobial abilities, especially good at killing molds, but only when present in high amounts [Hunting (Conditioning) pg 130]. 

This is in one of my favorite, go to conditioners that I've been using for well over ten years. It has not caused any problems as far as conditioning and defining my hair. That's why I'm calling it a 

* * * Tried and true ingredient * * * 

See also: Humectant Propylene glycol 

Source(s): Begoun Hunting 

Chitosan    

Caution 

Made from crab shells (chitin) which can cling to hair and make it feel thicker. Pg 394. —This might not be what tightly curly hair needs, however.—T It's also used as a film former and to hold hair in place. Gottschalck pg 347. 

See also: Film former Chitin 

Source(s): Begoun Gottschalck 

Sodium hydroxide    (aka Lye, Soda lye, Caustic soda) 

Avoid 

Known as “alkaline perms”. Often found in relaxers and texturizers. Highly caustic. Denatures hair and can dissolve it. In smaller concentrations, it's used as a pH adjuster. In higher concentrations, such as in relaxers, it can cause severe burns on skin. Begoun pg 155. Of the same pH found in oven cleaners, drain cleaners and hair removers. If you've ever relaxed your hair without gloves (hopefully not), and noticed your hands felt really slippery but it wouldn't wash off, here's why: "The reason sodium hydroxide feels slimy is because it is chemically reacting with the fatty acid esters and oils naturally found in your skin. Essentially, you’re turning bits of your skin into soap. (The reaction is called saponification). And as you know, soap is slippery.” 

See also: Lye 

Source(s): Begoun http://thebeautybrains.com/?s=panthenol&x=0&y=0 

Hydroxyethylcellulose    

Okay 

Thickener made from plants, often used as an emulsifier. This is known to be very mild, even in high concentrations [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 239-240]. 

Source(s): Hunting http://www.cosmeticscop.com/ 

Butylphenyl methylpropional    

Caution 

Synthetic fragrance with a floral-fresh scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin. 

See also: Irritant 

Source(s): http://www.CosmeticsInfo.org 

Amyl cinnamal    (aka Alpha-amyl cinnamic aldehyde) 

Caution 

Fragrance. Pale yellow liquid with a floral/ jasmine scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin. 

See also: Irritant 

Source(s): www.cosmeticsinfo.org 

Citronellol    

Caution 

Fragrant chemical that occurs naturally in many plant oils, certain fruits annd bevererages. Pale yellow oily liquid that has a scent of "sweet, rose, leather, musty, and floral." Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin. 

See also: Irritant 

Source(s): http://www.epa.gov 

Hydroxycitronellal    

Caution 

Synthetic, clear to yellow, oily liquitd. Used in perfumes. Has a sweet, floral, lily of the valley scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin. 

See also: Irritant 

Source(s): http://chemicalland21.com/specialtychem/perchem/CITRONELLAL%20HYDRATE.htm http://www.dermatology.org.uk/portal/downloads/Fragrance.doc. 

Limonene    

Caution 

Component of many fragrant natural ingredients such as citrus oils (d-limonen), pine trees or mint (l-limonen). May cause scalp sensitivity. Best not to use it on a baby's scalp or skin. 

See also: Irritant 

Source(s): Begoun 

Linalool    

Caution 

Fragrance with a floral, lily scent. Fragrances may cause irritation. It's best not to use them on a baby's skin. 

See also: Irritant 

Reference:

Terry La Flesh’s ingredients directory at tightlycurly.com

TIGI on the Rebound Review

The Silver Platter

TIGI on the rebound: Review

This is a curl cream called a ‘curl recall cream’ 

See my long rant about curl resurrection in a follow-up post. Basically, if you have curls you have curls. If you damage them you will not have curls. If you have straight hair you can create curls but you cannot recall them from the dead. 

First impressions of this product. 

I’m not a big fan of packaging. It really does not matter to me. Although TIGI does have eye catching ones. Interestingly, whenever I saw these products on shelf they did not speak to me. The name Bed Head does nothing for me. 

But, judging a product because it does not look the part is not always the way to go. I research, look, feel try and then decide. 

The cotton candy scent is a bit too sweet for me. I prefer more subtle perfumed scents. Florals, wood and more natural scents as opposed to food scents work for me. 

The consistency is different. It looks and feels like a thick mouse and creates foam when applied to wet hair. I do think the foam helps with curl separation. But in general foaming agents are surfactants which are fine for rinse out but not so good for leave-ins.  Which made me jump straight to the ingredients list to see what this product contains.

Most of the ingredients are okay. Some have a caution but one in particular are to be avoided. See the list below. 

The below information is referenced from Terry La Flesh’s ingredients directory at tightlycurly.com

Methylchloroisothiazolinone/ Methylisothiazolinone (aka Kathon CG ) 

Caution 

“…research…on these…preservatives…[are on]…how Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone work together…[they] are known to be corrosive to skin, irritating to eyes, and toxic to fish. However, in the low doses of it used in cosmetics, they haven't been found to be irritating so long as it isn't used in concentrations above 0.12 percent. The[y]…are…found together…because…combined, the[y] kill off nearly all microbes, and not much of them are needed to do so. They also work over a wide range of product pHs. [Hunting (Conditioning) pgs 276-277]. 

See also: Preservative Magnesium nitrate Magnesium chloride Methylchloroisothiazolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone Methylisothiazolinone Kathon CG 

Source(s): Hunting Winter 

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (aka IPBC) 

Caution 

“…a preservative. Begoun pg 1295. Fine in products that aren't going to be used as sprays. In Europe, it can't be used for oral care, lip-care products or lotions. IPBC is a whitish crystalline powder that contains iodine. It works by slowing down bacterial growth. It has been tested safe for humans according to the CIR Expert Panel, but should not be used in aerosol products. Winter pg. 301-302. —I put a caution here, because there are some concerns about it being a bit more of an irritant than other preservatives (although all preservatives are potential irritants). Just beware of how this is being applied (you might not want to use it if it's in a hair spray , or for a child). —T Source(s): Begoun Winter http://www.cosmeticsinfo.org/ingredient_details.php?ingredient_id=384”

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer    

Caution 

“Film-forming/ plasticizing polymer. This is best avoided in shampoo and conditioners because they can build up and get sticky. “ Source(s): http://ec.europa.eu/enterprise/cosmetics/cosing/index.cfm?fuseaction=search.details&id=31568” 

Triethanolamine (aka TEA) 

Caution 

“Sometimes functions as an emulsifier (keeps the oil and water components in a product from separating), pH adjuster (it's alkaline), and even to coat fresh fruits and vegetables. Known as an irritant in higher concentrations because of its alkalinity, so it may cause problems if it is present in higher concentrations in a product, though it should be fine in small amounts. This is an amine, and when combined with formaldehyde-releasing preservatives, may create nitrosamines. However, this has not been directly linked to any health issue. The CIR Expert Panel said that it was safe in rinse-off products, so long as it did not exceed a 5% concentration. Begoun (Cosmetics) pg 1282 Winter pg. 524” 

TEA Dodecyl-Benzene-Sulfonate    (aka Sulfonated Oils) 

Avoid 

“Drying cleanser [Begoun (Hair)]. This is a Sulfonated oil, which is made by reacting oils with sulfuric acid. This is known to strip color from both natural and colored hair, so it's often used to remove dye from the hair or to lighten it for highlights. May even dry out the skin if used [Winter (7th ed.) pp. 502, 512]. See also: Sulfonated oils Source(s): Begoun Winter”

My view: 

I have to say that I really did like the way that this product defined my hair. The curls were popping out of every part of my head. It did not dry with a residue although I would have liked a bit more shine. I must say I am really disappointed at the ingredients in this one. Apart from the fact that I  have an iodine sensitivity this product just contain way too many caution labels for me. 

At a size 125ml at R250 this product is not cheap. If I could see the concentrations of the actual ingredients I may use it again. Until then I don’t think I am going to run out to refill. 

Love Naturally

SHL

Paul Mitchell- Curls Twirl Around

Its a “Crunch Free Curl Definer”

AT 150ml at R320 this is not a cheap product. Its available at most hair salons and product suppliers. 

Its presented in the coolest transparent pump bottle with two products inside one a gel the other a curl cream. When you pump the two mix to form a cream. At first glance it is impressive. 

The ingredients label is filled with good stuff and nothing obviously yuk. I used it on co-washed hair and I was utterly disappointed. It was the least impressive of all the products I tried this week. From a distance my hair looked fine but up close it did not do what I expected. My curls did not clump. They separated into a lot more looser/ frizzy bits even after I used about 1/3rd of the bottle. Like most curl creams it had no shine. My hair was soft and indeed crunch free but not at all what I wanted it to be. 

I do not think that I would buy this product again. I must say that while i was unhappy with how my hair looked I am getting positive feedback from other people. So see the images and perhaps try and see if this product works better for you. 

Love Naturally 

SHL 

My friends Birthday with my Paul Mitchell Curls